Legend has it that a certain turn-of-the-century Boston restaurateur used to serve whatever tender, white-fleshed fish he could find at the market under a catchall name he invented: "scrod." (That way, he never had to update his menus.) The term, peculiar to New England, is now applied to young cod and haddock.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

2 slices of bacon, chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
1/2 cup coarse fresh bread crumbs
1½ tablespoons minced dill pickle
3/4 pound scrod (young cod or haddock) fillet
1 teaspoon mayonnaise

Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a skillet cook the bacon over moderate heat, stirring, until it is crisp, add the onion, and cook the mixture, stirring, until the onion is softened. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in the bread crumbs, the pickle, and salt and pepper to taste. Arrange the scrod in a foil-lined shallow baking dish, spread the top with the mayonnaise, and cover the fish with the crumb mixture, pressing it in gently. Bake the scrod in the upper third of the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until it just flakes.